What defines Canadian cuisine? Is it even a thing?” This intriguing question sparked a genuine curiosity in a French-Moroccan couple at my sons’ school in Montreal. I began unfolding the rich tapestry of iconic dishes: Quebecois poutine and tourtière, Acadian rappie pie, Newfoundland’s cod tongues, and Indigenous herring roe on kelp. Yet, the realisation hit me – you won’t hear people in San Francisco or Shanghai suggesting, “Let’s go out for Canadian tonight!” Unlike well-defined cuisines like Japanese sushi or Neapolitan pizza, Canada, a young nation, is still in the process of shaping its culinary identity. However, for those seeking intense flavours and unbridled creativity, Canada’s cities stand out as an unparalleled destination for a unique gastronomic experience.
Diversity Unveiled: A Culinary Exploration
In suburban Richmond, B.C., renowned for having the best Asian food in North America (see “Richmond’s Roots,” p. 12), embark on a culinary journey where chefs at Canoe in Toronto, St. Lawrence in Vancouver, and River Café in Calgary expertly blend French and Italian expertise with seasonal Canadian ingredients such as line-caught fish, native game, and wild-foraged greens.
Canada’s Multifaceted Culinary Landscape: A Melting Pot of Flavours
Canada’s diversity is not just geographic but culinary. Métis, Inuit, and over 50 distinct First Nations cultures coalesce with waves of immigrants, creating a unique cultural matrix. This year, as Canada’s population surpassed 40 million, the recent surge driven by refugees from Ukraine, Syria, Haiti, Iran, and Central and South America adds additional layers to Canada’s gastronomic tapestry. Here, identities, techniques, and ingredients mingle freely, allowing food lovers to delve into their traditions, discard them, or transform them into something entirely new.
A Cross-Country Journey: Fusion of Traditions at Its Finest
During a recent cross-country trip, I encountered a dish that perfectly embodied this idea: a bowl of tajarin at Kissa Tanto in Vancouver. Tajarin, a Piedmontese pasta made with an overabundance of butter and egg yolks, reflected Chef Joël Watanabe’s Japanese and French-Canadian heritage. Fresh noodles intertwined with slices of shimeji and shiitake mushrooms, finished with Marsala, and crowned with egg yolks cured in miso – a harmonious cross-cultural study in umami, encapsulating Canada’s evolving culinary narrative.
Must-Visit Restaurants: A Culinary Odyssey
1. Kissa Tanto (Vancouver): A Fusion Haven
Situated in Vancouver’s historic Chinatown, Kissa Tanto invites diners with a purple neon sign. Chef Joël Watanabe’s Corsican and Japanese heritage shine in dishes like carne cruda – thinly sliced Wagyu beef with Japanese pears, arima sansho seasoning, and shaved Parmesan.
2. Miss Likklemore’s (Toronto): Elevating Caribbean Cuisine
A high-toned hot spot in Toronto’s West Indian community, Miss Likklemore’s elevates Caribbean cuisine. Chef Lonie Murdock presents slow-braised oxtail, jerk chicken, and crab XO, alongside crowd-pleasers like mac pie and a delectable carrot cake.
3. Kozak Homemade Ukraïnian Food (Vancouver): A Taste of Ukrainian Heritage
Bringing the spirit of Ukrainian warriors to Vancouver, Kozak recreates pre-Communism Ukrainian dishes with Canadian ingredients. Sourdough with Red Fife wheat, sea buckthorn-infused lemon tarts, and pierogies stuffed with duck and elk are highlights.
4. Beba (Montreal): A Journey through Chef Ariel Schor’s Bliss
In Verdun, Montreal, Chef Ariel Schor’s intimate bistro, Beba, blends Japanese sardines, locally foraged mushrooms, and ricotta-white asparagus gnudi. Reflecting Schor’s Jewish heritage, dishes like duck-filled empanadas and caviar-topped potato knish offer a delightful exploration.
5. Dailo (Toronto): East Asian Standards with a Twist
Chef Nick Liu at Dailo in Toronto fuses Cantonese, French, and Chinese Canadian influences. Hainanese chicken with black truffles and a Big Mac Bao showcase Liu’s celebration of beloved East Asian standards with a contemporary twist.
6. Damas (Montreal): A Pan-Ottoman Feast
Chef Fuad Nirabie at Damas in Montreal crafts a pan-Ottoman feast, offering dishes like braised lamb from Alberta, shish borek, and baked sea bass stuffed with sautéed peppers, capers, and seven spices. Nirabie embraces the cosmopolitan fusion of Ottoman cuisine.
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Conclusion: Canada’s Culinary Renaissance
In conclusion, Canada’s culinary scene is a vibrant mosaic, constantly evolving with influences from diverse cultures. These six restaurants exemplify the dynamic and exciting journey that is Canadian cuisine, making them must-visit places to eat in Canada. Whether you are a local or a visitor, exploring Canada’s culinary landscape promises an adventure filled with unique flavours and innovative fusions. So, let’s embark on a gastronomic odyssey through the best places to eat in Canada, where diversity is the main course