Fashion, as an industry, has always reflected the mood of its times. But rarely has a brand combined cutting-edge streetwear aesthetics with such a potent message of activism and social commentary as Who Decides War. Founded by the visionary designer Everard Best, also known as Murder Bravado, and his creative partner Téla D’Amore, Who Decides War pushes the boundaries of contemporary fashion by fusing innovative design with deep cultural and political themes. From their elaborate designs to their provocative runway shows, Who Decides War is more than just a brand—it’s a movement challenging societal norms and rethinking how fashion can tell stories about the world.
The Origins of Who Decides War
Everard Best, an up-and-coming designer who gained early recognition for his denim work and deconstructed designs, founded Who Decides War in 2019. With the earlier success of his brand Murder Bravado, which became known for its hand-detailed denim pieces and unique storytelling through fashion, Best sought to expand his creative expression by launching a new venture that explored more profound themes.
Who Decides War grew out of Best’s desire to engage with larger philosophical questions about humanity, society, and the impact of war and conflict. The brand’s name itself is an inquiry—Who Decides War?—which serves as a reminder to question power structures and consider the human cost of violence and division.
Téla D’Amore, a key figure in the brand’s creation and development, plays a vital role in shaping the label’s artistic direction. Together, they have created a brand where clothing isn’t just about style, but about fostering dialogue around complex issues, particularly those surrounding conflict, spirituality, and survival in a fractured world.
Aesthetic and Design Philosophy
One of the hallmarks of Who Decides War is its distinctive aesthetic, which blends streetwear sensibilities with high-fashion craftsmanship. The brand is known for its intricate attention to detail, including hand-embellished pieces, unique textiles, and heavily layered silhouettes. Central to its collections is a recurring theme of destruction and rebuilding, symbolized by distressed fabrics, raw hems, and intricate patchwork.
Who Decides War collections often revolve around the concept of reconstruction. Whether it’s reworking denim into elaborate jackets or using patchwork to symbolize piecing together fragments of life after conflict, their designs reflect a deep appreciation for both imperfection and resilience. The clothing feels both worn and reimagined as if each garment has lived through its own journey of destruction and rebirth.
Denim is one of the brand’s signature materials. Best is a master of manipulating denim into wearable art, deconstructing it with razor precision, and then rebuilding it into something entirely new. Embroidery, laser-etched detailing, and hand-painted motifs often adorn the pieces, creating garments that blur the lines between fashion, art, and personal expression. But denim isn’t the only focus—Who Decides War also incorporates knitwear, outerwear, and even formal tailoring, all imbued with a gritty, lived-in feel that challenges traditional luxury fashion norms.
Fashion as Activism
While Who Decides War Hoodie is undoubtedly a fashion brand, it’s also a platform for activism and social commentary. The collections often reference historical and contemporary issues, particularly those related to war, religion, and societal power dynamics. Best and D’Amore use their platform to comment on the human cost of conflict, the spiritual toll of violence, and the ways in which individuals and communities rebuild in the aftermath.
For instance, the Spring/Summer 2021 collection, titled Genesis, explored themes of spirituality, renewal, and the divine within destruction. Religious iconography, including cherubs, crosses, and biblical references, was woven throughout the designs, giving the collection a reverent yet rebellious feel. It seemed to ask whether humanity could ever find salvation amidst the chaos and violence that has historically defined our existence.
The themes explored in Who Decides War‘s collections are often intentionally provocative, meant to spark conversation and encourage reflection. The brand has taken on topics like colonialism, the environment, and global inequities, inviting wearers to confront these difficult realities through the lens of fashion. Even their runway shows and presentations are theatrical performances, meant to evoke emotion and challenge viewers’ perceptions. For instance, the Fall/Winter 2022 show was held in a church, complete with a live choir, adding to the collection’s celestial and reflective nature.
The Streetwear Movement and Fashion’s Evolution
Who Decides War represents the evolution of streetwear from casual, subcultural roots into a global movement with serious cultural and political undertones. Streetwear, once primarily defined by skate culture and urban fashion, has become a dominant force in luxury fashion. Brands like Supreme, Off-White, and Fear of God have played significant roles in this transformation, but Who Decides War brings something different to the table—a philosophical depth and social consciousness that sets it apart.
Best’s ability to merge art, religion, and social critique into his designs gives Who Decides War a unique place in the streetwear ecosystem. While the brand appeals to a younger generation attuned to street fashion, its deeper message resonates across cultural boundaries, attracting a diverse audience that includes fashion enthusiasts, activists, and artists alike.
Sustainability and Ethical Production
In addition to its provocative designs and social commentary, Who Decides War is committed to sustainability and ethical production. The brand’s focus on reconstructing and reusing materials, particularly denim, aligns with the growing demand for sustainable fashion practices. By working with local artisans and using high-quality, responsibly sourced materials, Best and D’Amore have crafted a brand that emphasizes longevity and conscious consumption.
In a world where fast fashion dominates, Who Decides War offers an alternative approach—one that values craftsmanship, sustainability, and storytelling. Their pieces are meant to be cherished, with each garment telling a story that extends far beyond trends and seasons.
The Future of Who Decides War
As Who Decides War continues to grow, the brand’s future seems filled with possibilities. Everard Best and Téla D’Amore have proven their ability to not only create visually stunning clothing but also challenge the fashion world to engage with important societal issues. With each new collection, they push the boundaries of what fashion can be—a tool for expression, a canvas for art, and a platform for activism.
Who Decides War isn’t just redefining streetwear; it’s redefining the role of fashion in society. As they continue to question power, conflict, and humanity, the brand serves as a reminder that fashion has the potential to provoke thought, inspire change, and, ultimately, shape the world we live in.